Malo si pobrkao tu pojmove, zove se filtracija u fluidizovanom sloju. Nije u pitanju keramika već neka vrsta plastike ili sličnog materijala, i mene mrzi sad da tražim, kao lagana verzija bio kugli.
Uopšte nije važno da li je pogon vazdušna ili motorna pumpa, bitno je da se vrti filter materijal - fluizidovani sloj.
Zna se dobro šta spada u wet-dry.
gilepr Akvarista
Registrovan: 05 Sep 2012
Poruke: 74
Lokacija: Beograd
Nije to nista novo. Ja sam to jedno vreme radio. Samo morate da znate koliko pogoduje bakterijama, isto tako odgovara i nekim algama, kao što je zelena končasta.
Popaj Akvarista
Registrovan: 06 Apr 2011
Poruke: 940
Lokacija: Beograd
Čekaj sad nešto ne razumem, po nekoj mojoj logici i takođe po drugom postu na prvoj strani, ako ga stavim ispod keramike ja time gušim protok vode zbog kontra protoka vazduha.
Ako ga stavim u taložnik onda pumpa iz zadnje komore povlači vodu obogaćenu kiseonikom kroz filter materijal i "obogaćuje" ga kiseonikom
Sad, ja pričam o klasika trokomornom filteru.
Pošto obično ono što mislim nije ono kako jeste u stvari, verovatno ste u pravu i ispadam sasvim opravdano glup
Wet-Dry je nešto sasvim drugo, drugi princip rada i druga priča.
jovica Urednik
Registrovan: 13 Maj 2012
Poruke: 2547
Lokacija: Smederevo
Ljudi, voda je zajednicka za ceo akvarijum. Ja imam 3 rasprsivaca. U akvarijumu, u prvoj i u zadnjoj komori filtera po jedan rasprsivac. Rade 24h, zbog skrame na povrsini u filteru, koja se vremenom stvara.
Clan sam vise grupa o akvaristici, kako nasih ,tako i inostranih. Misljenja su dosta podeljena. Ko bilduje biljke, ne gotivi pumpu za vazduh, ubacuju co2, nocu ga gase, a ne pale vazdusne pumpe. Ja sam za to da ribama bude dobro. A zato je potreban O2, takodje i je potreban i za bilosku filtraciju u filteru. Dobra bioloska filtracija, kiseonik, zdrave ribe.
Slazem se sa nesom, wet-dry je nesto sasvim drugo. Sudeci da kod mene cesto nestaje struja po 2-3h, a nekad i duze, taj wet-dry sistem bi se zvao dry!
Icethunder Akvarista
Registrovan: 17 Jun 2013
Poruke: 306
Lokacija: BEOGRAD
Čovek koji za mene dobro poznaje ovu materiju gotovo u svim svojim akvarijumima koristi sistem wet/dry
Da nekvarim originalni post
This graph above is much more similar to what I typically have and find for my tanks. You 'll note the exponential increase that then starts to level off between 9 am till about 11 am, then stays flat. Lights and plant uptake has virtually NO EFFECT. This is because only 1-2% of the CO2 we add actually is delivered to the plant's carbon demand.
At first this may seem wasteful, but the counter point to all this is stability and ..........good O2 levels.
Good O2 cannot be overlooked in this. Since fish typically limit the upper bounds, and we do NOT need, nor should add CO2 at night, O2 must be addressed.measured in conjunction with CO2. The stability we are after is ONLY during the light period, there;'s no need to gas the fish chronically 24/7, we only add CO2 for about 8 hours and then the plants also are adding 1-2 ppm or more O2 as well.
With a wet/dry filter, the drop after you shut off the CO2 is very rapid, about 30-60 minutes, it'll drop to 2-3 ppm, with canister filters, it would only get down to 10-20 ppm for the 180 Gallon tank I had for an upper range in the 60 ppm's.
The O2 was in the 5-6 ppm ranges.
This was unacceptable to me so I switched to a wet/dry.
Wet/drys add their own issues, some can degas the system TOO MUCH. You need to find a balance that works.
Sometimes piling on more and more current is worse.
I prefer the bean animal style over flow(biggest issue for many is the prefilter section and then the dry section needs sealed up). It's very quiet and saves CO2 well, but still added plenty of O2.
plantbrain, 30 Mar 2013 #23
Video najbolje ilustruje sve ono o čemu piše...ako se još usresredimo na površinsku agitaciju
Pozdrav svima